A successful shower
installation requires careful planning and a lot of work. In most
cases, you will need to do three types of tasks: framing walls,
installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must
decide on the type of shower that you wish to install. It is
important to ascertain whether the chosen shower is capable of coping
with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through
the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to
different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).
It is also important
to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the
piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of
Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The
hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be
connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water
temperature can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap
and extremely simple to install. However, although the hose
connection is simple, it is easily dislodged. Additionally, it is
inconvenient to adjust the temperature.
Bath/Shower Mixer:
The hose and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath
mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps.
It is a very cheap option and no extra plumbing is involved. However,
the bath/shower mixers also suffer from inconvenient temperature
control options.
Manual Mixer: The
hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall
unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single
valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled
through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers).
Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types,
they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They
also require additional plumbing of hot and cold water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer:
The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit
and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve
here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust
the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of
the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes
convenient temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of
the different mixer options.
Power Shower: A
power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electric pump
that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature.
This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a
cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the
adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand,
it is unsuitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the
water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An
electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it
heats the water electrically. It is important to note that for this
shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least
0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and
pressure to be adjusted via a knob. Models with temperature
stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps
elsewhere in use within the household. A major drawback of electric
showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of high
temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater
pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is
often weak and the mains water is colder. However, this problem is
tackled in some models which are available with a winter/summer
setting.
Method
Depending on the
type of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be
fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below
or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before starting, it
is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control,
and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drainage system
to remove the waste water will need to be planned. Both positions of
the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be considered
if an instantaneous or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the instruction
guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the
pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is
important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes,
they should be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with
isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and
plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray,
shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main
shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This
may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water
supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
If you are
installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the
electricity supply before making any electrical connections. Once
these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the
instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water
Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water
reservoir can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as little as
150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support beneath it -
possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this
option, the main and distribution pipes will also have to be raised
to meet the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a
booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted.
Whichever type is chosen, it must be connected into the power supply
in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use
15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short
and straight as possible so as to maintain maximum pressure and
minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising the use of elbows for
pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the
water supply. You can achieve this by bending the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or
ignoring local code restrictions.
# Using pipes that
are too small.
# Attaching copper
to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the
two.
# Not using tape or
pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your
fixtures when installing them.
# Not installing an
air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply
stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the
finished wall is in place.
# Not properly
aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto
the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will
cause a leak.)
# When turning the
water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or
flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris
can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
Ray Dobson is the
managing Director of WD Bathrooms based in Sheffield. For a wide
range of shower cubicles and enclosures see
http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk/acatalog/Shower_Cubicles.html
alternatively for a wide range of bathroom and shower fittings and
further articles on Bathrooms visit http://www.wdbathrooms.co.uk
